Puppy advice: raising, training and caring for your puppy
Puppy Essentials: The New Puppy Checklist for Everything You Need
The puppy essentials to buy, the home to prepare, the paperwork to sort and what the breeder should hand over, set out as simple checklists.
What this guide covers
The puppy essentials are a bed and a safe sleeping space, bowls and the food your puppy already eats, a collar with an ID tag, a lead and harness, chew toys, poo bags, an enzymatic cleaner and a few grooming basics. Just as important is the admin: register with a vet, arrange insurance, and make sure the microchip is transferred into your name. Get all of it done before collection day so the first week is about settling in, not shopping.
What do I need for a puppy? The short answer
This is the new puppy checklist at a glance. Everything here should be in the house, or sorted, before your puppy arrives.
| Area | Puppy essentials | Before collection day |
|---|---|---|
| Sleeping | Bed, washable blankets, crate or pen (optional) | Set up in a quiet spot |
| Feeding | Food and water bowls, the same complete puppy food the breeder uses, small training treats | Bought and stored out of reach |
| Walking and ID | Collar, ID tag with your name and address, lead, harness, car restraint or travel crate | Tag engraved, harness sized |
| Toys | Chew toys suitable for teething, a puzzle feeder | A few, not a mountain |
| Toilet and cleaning | Poo bags, puppy pads (if you use them), enzymatic cleaner, kitchen roll | Cleaner ready by the back door |
| Grooming | Brush or comb for the coat type, dog toothbrush and dog toothpaste, dog shampoo | Basic kit only |
| Home | Baby gates, cables and chemicals moved, garden fence checked | Walked round at puppy height |
| Admin | Vet registered, insurance in place, microchip transfer ready, vaccination record seen | Paperwork in one folder |
PDSA and Dogs Trust build their checklists around the same core of bedding, bowls, food, collar and tag, lead, harness, car restraint, toys and poo bags.
Puppy essentials list: what to buy before collection
You do not need to buy the whole pet shop. Preparing for your new puppy means a small set of puppy supplies that keep them safe, fed, comfortable and identifiable. Each table explains why an item is on the list and what to look for.
Sleeping and resting
| Item | Why you need it | What to look for |
|---|---|---|
| Bed | A puppy sleeps for much of the day and needs a place that is theirs | Washable, chew-resistant, big enough to stretch out in |
| Blankets | Warmth, comfort and something easy to wash after accidents | Two or three, so one is always clean |
| Crate or puppy pen | A safe den, and a way to keep your puppy safe when you cannot watch them | Room to stand, turn and lie flat; door left open at first |
A crate is optional, not compulsory. Dogs Trust lists it as an optional item rather than a must. If you do use one, it should feel like a den, never a punishment, and our guide to crate training a puppy walks through introducing it gently.
Feeding
| Item | Why you need it | What to look for |
|---|---|---|
| Food bowl and water bowl | Fresh water should always be available | Stable, easy to clean, sized for the breed |
| Complete puppy food | Puppies need food formulated for growth | Labelled as complete and for puppies; start with what the breeder fed |
| Training treats | Reward-based training starts on day one, and good behaviour is easier to build than to fix | Small, soft pieces; count them in the daily allowance |
| Food storage | Puppies will raid an open bag | A sealed container kept out of reach |
Ask the breeder exactly what your puppy eats, how much and when, so you can keep the diet the same for the first days. Any change of food should be gradual. Our puppy feeding guide covers portions, meal numbers and how to switch food safely.
Collar, ID tag, lead and harness
| Item | Why you need it | What to look for |
|---|---|---|
| Collar | Legally required in public places, and it carries the ID tag | Lightweight, adjustable; you should fit two fingers underneath |
| ID tag | The law requires your name and address on it | Engraved, not handwritten; add a phone number |
| Lead | Training and, later, walks | A light, standard-length training lead |
| Harness | Spreads pressure away from the neck | Adjustable, fitted to the puppy, checked weekly as they grow |
| Car restraint or travel crate | Safe journeys home and to the vet | A car harness clip or a secured travel crate |
Buy the collar and lead now, even though walks wait until the vet says vaccinations allow it. A puppy used to wearing a collar at home finds the first walk much easier.
Toys and enrichment
| Item | Why you need it | What to look for |
|---|---|---|
| Chew toys | Teething puppies need something they are allowed to chew | Firm but with some give; nothing small enough to swallow |
| Puzzle feeder or food toy | Mental work tires a puppy as much as play | Simple designs to start with |
| Tug or fetch toy | Bonding and play with you | Played with together, then put away |
Rotate a few toys rather than leaving a heap out. Our guide to puppy toys explains which types suit which age and how to spot a toy that has become unsafe.
Toilet training and cleaning products
| Item | Why you need it | What to look for |
|---|---|---|
| Poo bags | Picking up after your dog, in the garden and later on walks | Plenty of them; keep some by every door |
| Enzymatic cleaner | Breaks down the smell so your puppy does not keep returning to the same spot | A pet-specific enzymatic cleaner |
| Kitchen roll and old towels | Accidents will happen | A dedicated roll by the back door |
| Puppy pads or training pads (optional) | Useful in flats or overnight | Phase them out as garden toileting takes over |
Accidents are part of the process. Choose a toilet spot in the garden before your puppy arrives, then follow our step-by-step guide on how to toilet train a puppy from the first hour.
Grooming basics
| Item | Why you need it | What to look for |
|---|---|---|
| Brush or comb | Gets your puppy used to being handled | Suited to the coat type; ask the breeder |
| Dog toothbrush and dog toothpaste | Early tooth brushing builds a lifelong habit | Toothpaste made for dogs, not people |
| Dog shampoo | For the occasional bath | Gentle, made for dogs |
| Nail clippers (optional) | Short nails, and a puppy used to having paws touched | Ask your vet or groomer to show you how first |
Short, calm grooming sessions are as much about handling as hygiene: a puppy happy to have ears, paws and mouth touched is far easier for you and your vet to care for.
Puppy essentials as your puppy grows
Not everything you need to buy has to be in place on day one. Some kit is better bought as your puppy grows and you know their adult size and habits.
| Item | Why it can wait |
|---|---|
| Adult-size bed | Your puppy may outgrow or chew the first one |
| Coat | Only some breeds need one; wait and see |
| Long line | Useful for recall training once walks start |
| Pheromone diffusers or calming products | Optional; PDSA lists them as an extra, not an essential |
How to puppy-proof your home and garden
Puppy-proofing is part of the essentials. Get down to puppy height and look for anything that can be chewed, swallowed, pulled over or squeezed through.
Indoors checklist
- Move or cover electrical cables and phone chargers
- Put cleaning products, dishwasher tablets, bleach and descaler in a high or locked cupboard
- Keep all medicines, human and pet, out of reach; ibuprofen and paracetamol are among those that can poison dogs
- Lift shoes, socks, children's toys, hair ties and remote controls off the floor
- Check houseplants: peace lily, aloe vera and devil's ivy are among the indoor plants Dogs Trust lists as poisonous
- Fit baby gates to keep the puppy out of rooms you cannot supervise
- Keep bins lidded and food off low surfaces
- Plan for growth: what is out of reach today may not be next month
Garden checklist
- Walk the fence line for gaps, loose panels and places a puppy could dig under
- Store slug pellets, rat poison, weed killer, antifreeze and fertilisers securely
- Check for poisonous plants such as daffodil bulbs, foxgloves, yew and ivy
- Clear conkers and acorns in autumn
- Cover or fence ponds and keep gates shut
If your puppy eats or chews something that might be poisonous, contact your vet straight away. They can tell you whether the amount is harmful and whether treatment is needed. If your puppy is collapsing, struggling to breathe or fitting, treat it as an emergency and call a vet immediately.
Agree house rules before your puppy arrives: who feeds, who does the late-night garden trip, which rooms are off limits. Consistent puppy training from day one gives your puppy the best start in life and is far easier than undoing habits later.
The new puppy checklist for paperwork and admin
This is the part people leave until the last minute, yet it matters most in the first weeks.
| Task | When | What you need to know |
|---|---|---|
| Check the microchip | Before you pay | All dogs in the UK must be microchipped and registered on an approved database by 8 weeks old. Ask for proof: a microchip certificate, vet records or other paperwork showing the chip has been fitted |
| Transfer the microchip into your name | As soon as you get your puppy | The breeder registers the chip first; you must then update the database with your own details. You can be fined up to £500 if a dog is not microchipped or not registered on an approved database |
| Order the ID tag | Before collection | Your name and address must be on the collar or a tag attached to it in a public place |
| Register with a vet | Before collection | Choose a practice and check its out-of-hours cover. Visiting before your puppy arrives helps |
| Book a first check-up | First week or so | Book once your puppy has had a little time to settle, and arrange any remaining vaccinations then |
| Arrange pet insurance | Before or on collection day | Insure as soon as possible to cover future illness or injury. Cover varies between policies, so read what is and is not included |
| Keep the vaccination record | On collection day | If the puppy has had vaccinations, you should see the certificates. Your vet will advise when the course is complete and when your puppy can go out |
| Diary future treatments | First week | Note when boosters, worming and flea treatments are due |
The law on ID tags
Under the Control of Dogs Order 1992, every dog on a highway or in a place of public resort must wear a collar with the name and address of the owner on the collar or on a plate or badge attached to it. A microchip does not replace the tag; gov.uk is clear that a microchipped dog must still wear a collar and tag in public. Dogs Trust recommends adding your phone number too.
Exemptions cover certain working dogs, such as police dogs and registered guide dogs, not a family pet on a walk.
Vaccinations and going out
Do not walk your puppy beyond your own garden until their first course of vaccinations is complete, and let your vet tell you when the first walk is safe. Timings vary by vaccine and practice, so your vet's schedule is the one to follow. Our guide to settling a new puppy in covers the first few days and nights, and how to help your puppy settle into new surroundings while you wait.
What should the breeder hand over?
A responsible breeder will give you a proper puppy pack. If key items are missing, ask why before you hand over any money. Our page on buying a puppy safely sets out the wider checks, including seeing the puppy with mum.
| What you should receive | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Contract of sale | Records the puppy, breeder and buyer details, plus any agreed conditions |
| Microchip number and database name | So you can transfer the registration into your name |
| Vaccination certificate | Shows which vaccines were given and when the next ones are due |
| Worming record | Dates and products used; RSPCA says puppies should have been wormed at around two, five and eight weeks |
| Health test results for the parents | Shows whether the parents were screened for inherited conditions that affect the breed |
| Vet visit notes and any treatment | So your vet knows the puppy's history |
| Feeding guide, often with a starter supply of food | Keeps the diet familiar for the first days or week |
| Registration certificate (pedigree puppies) | Signed so ownership can be transferred, if the puppy is registered with the Royal Kennel Club |
| Insurance cover note (if the breeder arranged it) | Shows the insurer and when cover ends |
| Breeder contact details | So you can ask questions after you get home |
| Blanket or cloth that smells of mum (often included) | Comfort on the first nights |
Two red lines apply to every sale. Puppies should not leave their mother before eight weeks old, and it is illegal to sell them younger. A good breeder will always let you see the puppy with its mother; if she is never available, walk away. Buy direct from the person who bred the litter; our page on Lucy's Law explains why that matters.
Frequently asked questions
What do I need for a puppy's first night?
A bed or crate in a quiet spot, a blanket that smells of mum, water, a chew toy, and kitchen roll and enzymatic cleaner for accidents. Expect at least one night-time trip to the garden.
Is it a legal requirement for a puppy to wear an ID tag?
Yes, in a public place. The Control of Dogs Order 1992 requires a collar showing the owner's name and address, on the collar itself or on an attached tag. A microchip does not replace it, and adding a phone number is sensible.
Do I need a crate for my puppy?
No, a crate is optional. A pen, a gated kitchen or a quiet corner with a bed can all work, as long as your puppy can rest undisturbed.
Who pays to transfer the microchip?
The breeder must microchip and register the puppy before sale. Updating the details to your own is your responsibility, and some databases charge a fee for it.
When should I get pet insurance for a new puppy?
As soon as possible, ideally from the day your puppy comes home, so any illness or injury is covered from the start. Check exclusions and limits carefully.
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