Companimal
Log In

Puppy advice: raising, training and caring for your puppy

Bringing a Puppy Home: Collection Day, First Night and First Week

How old a puppy should be to take home, what paperwork to collect, the car journey, the first night and a calm first-week routine, based on UK law and charity advice.

Bringing a Puppy Home: Collection Day, First Night and First Week
What this guide covers15 sections · 13 min read

A puppy should be at least 8 weeks old before you take them home. In England and Scotland, a licensed breeder must not sell a puppy under 8 weeks or permanently separate them from their mother before then, and every puppy in the UK must be microchipped and registered by 8 weeks. After that, bringing a puppy home is mostly about preparation: collect the right paperwork, keep the journey short and calm, and give your puppy a quiet, predictable first week.

How old should a puppy be to take home?

Eight weeks is the minimum age at which puppies can leave their mum, and it is the age most puppies move to their new homes. Breeding licence conditions and the microchip law both set that age.

Rule What it says Where it applies
Minimum age for sale No puppy under 8 weeks may be sold or permanently separated from its biological mother Licensed breeders in England and Scotland
Seeing the puppy with mum A puppy may only be shown to a buyer together with its biological mother Licensed breeders in England and Scotland
Microchipping Every dog must be microchipped and registered on an approved database by 8 weeks old Whole of the UK
Fines for no chip Up to £500 if the dog is not chipped, and up to £500 if it is not registered Whole of the UK

The only exceptions in the breeding rules are for the health or welfare of the puppy, its littermates or its mother. If a seller offers a 6 or 7 week old puppy, or will not let you see the puppy with mum, walk away. Buying direct from the breeder, and seeing the puppy with mum, is at the heart of Lucy's Law.

Before your puppy arrives: puppy proof and create a safe space

Do the shopping from a new puppy checklist and the puppy-proofing a week before you bring your new puppy home, so the day itself is calm. The essentials:

  • A quiet resting area. Pick a bed or den in a calm, draught-free corner, and agree as a household that nobody disturbs the puppy there.
  • Food and water near, but separate. Put bowls close to the resting area, not inside the den.
  • The same food the breeder uses. Ask what brand and type they feed; a good breeder should send a few days' supply home.
  • Puppy-proofing. Move poisonous and chewable items out of reach, cover electrical wires and use baby gates to close off stairs and rooms.
  • House rules agreed in advance. Decide on sofas, bedrooms and who does the night toilet trips. Mixed messages make training harder.
  • A vet and insurance. Find a vet practice before the puppy arrives and look at pet insurance.
  • Toys. A few chew toys and a puzzle feeder give your pup something safe to chew.
  • Time at home. Plan to be around for the first few days, ideally with some time off work.

Collection day: the paperwork you should receive

Go through the puppy pack with the breeder before you leave. The Royal Kennel Club lists what it should contain.

Document What to check
Contract of sale Your details, the puppy's details and anything agreed, such as neutering or not breeding
Microchip details The chip number and the database it is registered on. You must update the record with your own details
Vaccination record Vaccines given, the brand and when the next dose is due
Worming record Products used and dates
Health screening results Any results, ideally with an explanation of what they mean
Registration certificate For a registered pedigree, signed on the back so you can transfer ownership
Insurance cover note If the breeder took out a starter policy, the provider and expiry date
Diet sheet and routine What, when and how much the puppy eats, plus the daily routine

Also ask for a blanket or cloth that smells of mum and the litter. It helps your puppy settle on the first night.

The car journey home

Most puppies have never been in a car before, so keep the trip easy.

  1. Collect at least an hour after a meal to cut the risk of travel sickness.
  2. Use a travel crate or a harness. The crate should be big enough for your pup to stand up and turn around.
  3. Stop for toilet breaks and water on long trips, but avoid laybys and service areas where lots of dogs go, because your puppy is not fully vaccinated yet.
  4. Avoid travelling in very hot weather, and never leave the puppy alone in the car.

Bring kitchen roll, a spare blanket and poo bags in case of accidents.

Your puppy's first day at home

Bringing home a puppy is an exciting time for you, but for your puppy it is a new environment, new surroundings and a new family all at once. The first hour sets the tone. Go straight to the spot in the garden you want your puppy to use as a toilet, wait, and praise or reward them when they go. Then show them their bed, food and water.

  • Introduce the house one room at a time rather than all at once.
  • Keep the home calm and put off visitors for the first few days, however keen friends and family are.
  • Stick to the feeding times the breeder used.
  • Offer frequent toilet trips, especially after meals and naps.
  • Keep play short. Puppies tire quickly and some sleep 18 to 20 hours a day.
  • Let your puppy come to you. Do not rush or force them; wait until they are ready.

It is normal for a puppy to be quiet, clingy or off their food on the first day. Settling time varies from puppy to puppy, so be patient.

Puppy first night: what to expect and how to help

Many new owners worry most about the puppy first night. Your puppy has just left their mum and littermates, so some crying is normal, and the main reason why puppies cry on a first night is fear, not naughtiness.

What helps on the first night

  • Sleep in the same room for the first few nights, then move away gradually.
  • Comfort your puppy if they cry. Ignoring a frightened puppy can make the fear worse. Confidence sleeping alone builds slowly.
  • Use the blanket that smells of mum in their bed.
  • Keep bedtime calm and the same every night, with a last toilet trip just before you settle down.
  • Do not shut your puppy in a crate overnight. If you plan to use the crate, introduce it slowly in the day first.
  • Expect night-time toilet trips for the first few weeks; small puppies have small bladders.

If you move your puppy's bed out of your room and the crying starts again, go back a step and move more slowly.

New puppy first week: a simple routine

Routine gives a puppy a sense of security. In the new puppy first week, aim for the same order of events every day, rather than exact clock times.

Area What an 8 week old puppy needs
Feeding Four small meals a day from 8 weeks to 4 months, on the food they are used to
Changing food If you do switch, change gradually over a week to 10 days
Water Fresh water available at all times
Toilet trips Take your puppy outside every 2 to 3 hours in the day, plus first thing in the morning, after meals, after waking and after play
Sleep Lots of it, often 18 to 20 hours a day, in a quiet spot where nobody disturbs them
Play and training Short, gentle sessions; puppies tire quickly
Walks None in public places until 1 to 2 weeks after the full primary vaccination course
Time alone Build up gradually, a few minutes at a time; do not leave a young puppy home alone for long

Short training ideas for the first week

  • Reward your puppy for responding to their name.
  • Reward every toilet in the right place straight away, the first step in toilet training a puppy. If your puppy has an accident indoors, clean it up and never punish them.
  • Teach a calm "off" or "down" if they jump up, by gently putting them back on the floor.
  • Handle paws, ears and mouth gently for a few seconds at a time, ready for vet checks and grooming.

Keep each session to a couple of minutes. A tired puppy does not learn well.

Vet registration, the first health check and pet insurance

It's a good idea to register your puppy with a vet before collection day, and book a first check a few days after you bring your puppy home.

At the first check, the vet may:

  • weigh your puppy and take their temperature
  • examine the eyes, ears, nose, mouth, teeth, gums, coat, paws, joints and genitals
  • recommend a vaccination plan and flea and worming treatment
  • talk about diet, exercise, grooming, training, neutering and identification

Take with you: the vaccination and worming records, the microchip details, any weight records, the food you are using and how much, and your questions. Carry your puppy in a crate or carrier, and do not put them on the floor of the waiting room until they are fully vaccinated.

Puppy vaccinations usually start at around 6 to 10 weeks, with a second dose about a month later. RSPCA guidance puts the second round at around 12 weeks. Timings for puppy vaccinations differ between vaccine brands and practices, so follow the schedule your vet gives you.

Sort out pet insurance before or on the day your puppy arrives. If the breeder has arranged a short starter policy, check the expiry date on the cover note so you are not left without cover.

Introducing your puppy to children

A few ground rules keep children and puppy safe.

  • Let the puppy go to the children, not the other way round. Children can sit on the floor and invite the puppy over with a toy.
  • No staring. It can feel threatening to a dog, so stroke under the chin rather than patting the head at first.
  • Keep voices calm. High-pitched squeals can upset a dog until they are used to them.
  • Respect the bed. If the puppy walks away or goes to their den, leave them alone.
  • Supervise every time. Children and dogs should always be actively supervised, and Blue Cross advises never leaving children under ten alone with any dog.

Puppies nip when they play and teethe. If it happens, stop the game calmly and swap in a toy, so the habit does not stick.

Introducing your puppy to other dogs and cats

Resident dogs. Blue Cross suggests a first meeting on neutral ground or in the garden, with toys and bones put away, and both dogs fed apart. Because a new puppy cannot go to public places until their vaccinations are done, the garden is usually the better option. Give your adult dog plenty of attention so they do not feel pushed out, expect a few grumbles in the first weeks, and do not leave them alone together until they are clearly relaxed with each other.

Cats. Keep the puppy on a lead and under control, let the cat choose whether to come closer or move away, and never let the puppy chase. Supervise every meeting for several weeks, and do not leave them alone together until they are clearly friends.

Socialisation in the first few weeks

Your puppy is in the socialisation phase now, so gentle, positive introductions to people, sounds and everyday life matter. Before vaccinations are complete, carry your pup to watch the world from your arms, invite calm visitors once they have settled, and let them hear household noises. Book puppy classes early, and look for a trainer who uses reward-based methods.

The months ahead: after the first week

Once the first week is behind you, the focus shifts from settling in to everyday care, training and growing up. This is what comes next, with our guide to each:

Topic What to know
Meals Keep to the breeder's food at first, then follow a puppy feeding guide by age as meals drop from four a day
Sleep Young puppies sleep for most of the day, and how long puppies sleep sets out the hours by age
Going out When puppies can go outside depends on their vaccinations, and once they can, walks build up gradually
Training Start reward-based puppy training from the first day, little and often
Toys and rest Safe puppy toys save your furniture during teething, and a puppy playpen gives them somewhere safe to rest
Growing up Puppy development stages explains what changes between 8 weeks and adulthood
Choosing a second dog later Our honest comparison of a male or female dog covers size, seasons and neutering

Common worries in the first week

Worry What is usually going on What to do
Crying at night Fear of being alone after leaving the litter Sleep nearby, comfort, then move away gradually
Accidents indoors Small bladder and no routine yet More frequent trips outside; clean up thoroughly; no punishment
Not very hungry Stress of a new home; appetite usually returns as the puppy settles Keep the breeder's food and times; call the vet if they will not eat
Still unsettled after a few weeks Possible separation anxiety Speak to your vet about an accredited behaviourist

When to call the vet

Call your vet the same day if your puppy refuses food, has repeated vomiting or diarrhoea, seems weak or flat, or if anything about their behaviour worries you. Contact a vet immediately, day or night, if your puppy collapses, has difficulty breathing, or you think they have eaten something poisonous. Write your vet's out-of-hours number down before collection day so you are not searching for it at midnight.

Frequently asked questions

Can I take a puppy home at 7 weeks?

No. Licensed breeders in England and Scotland must not sell a puppy under 8 weeks or permanently separate them from mum before then, except for health or welfare reasons. A seller offering a younger puppy is a warning sign.

Is 8 weeks too young to bring a puppy home?

No. Eight weeks old is the usual age and the legal minimum for licensed breeders. Some breeders keep puppies a little longer, which is also fine.

How long does it take a puppy to settle in?

It varies. Signs your puppy is settling include relaxed body language, a normal appetite, exploring, and starting to expect parts of the routine, such as going to their bowl at mealtimes.

Do I need to update my puppy's microchip?

Yes. The breeder should have the chip fitted and registered by 8 weeks, but you must contact the database and update the record with your own details. It may charge a fee.

Can I take my puppy for a walk in the first week?

Not in public places. Wait until 1 to 2 weeks after the full primary vaccination course, and avoid areas unvaccinated dogs may have used until then. A secure private garden is usually fine; ask your vet if you are unsure.

Ready to look?

Looking for your next dog?

Browse sellers who show their working. Every listing tells you what has been disclosed, and what has not.

How Companimal shows you what a seller has disclosed

Good

Account in good standing with a phone number confirmed by the seller.

Great

A council licence number disclosed, or KC registration declared on the listing.

Excellent

A credentialled breeder whose council licence we have checked against the register.

Information on a listing is self-declared by the seller and has not been independently checked. Read our methodology